Tanna Island, while small, has a unique variety of sights and experiences to offer. It boasts the majestic Yasur volcano, several fascinating cargo cults, and tribes. Tanna has its difficulties as well. No rental cars are available, and the roads around the volcano are incredibly rough. There is almost no public transportation, so you are fully reliant on the host (hotel) arranging your transport, meals, and activities. The host will arrange your transfers with local cars.
Accommodation
There are two major options for accommodation in Tanna: one of the expensive yet very nice resorts close to the airport like the White Grass Resort, or one of the bungalows and tree houses close to the volcano. I recommend the tree houses for a more local experience. We stayed at Tanna Volcano View Tree House (no longer on booking.com, but maybe you can WhatsApp them at +6787765627). Incredible location close to the volcano. Very kind host family, decent food. The room was very basic, but alright. Bathroom facilities have no running water, just buckets. But that is to be expected in the area.
Owner Robert helped us to arrange tours on the island. Pricing is very useful to know in advance as you will need cash for everything. The ATM is only in Lenakel or the airport.
Prices per person in vatu (cash only):
- Airport transfer both ways: 5000
- Dinner: 1000
- Lunch: 700
Yasur Volcano
Yasur hosts one among only 5 or so permanent lava lakes in the world, offering a spectacular sight.
The best time to see it, normally, would be sunset when you see it in daylight and then in the dark, when the lava really shines. Another great option is sunrise. The big variable is weather and wind direction – if the wind blows across the crater towards you, you will get a generous serving of volcanic ash and sulfur dioxide. Sometimes so much you would have to end the tour. So have a bandana and sunglasses just in case. If you have a scuba mask with you, funnily, it works as well. And if it rains there will be a lot of vapor obscuring the view of the lava. Due to the variability of weather, you should have at least two full days available for the volcano and time your visit according to the weather.
Official access to the volcano is through the park gate where the tours gather; you get the ticket and drive up the road in a 4×4. Interestingly, the tickets get cheaper for consecutive visits. But they are still not cheap, starting at 9000 and 5000 for the second time.
Another, more adventurous and maybe illegal option, is to hike up the volcano during the daytime from the ash plain (north side of the volcano along the tree line). I have met people who have done it, some safely, some got lost. So if you venture there, better bring somebody who knows the way, have water, and headlamps. Even if you don’t hike up, wandering in the ash plains is highly recommended.
John Frum Movement
If you are in Tanna on Friday, I highly recommend visiting the John Frum village as on Fridays 8 PM – 8 AM they sing their religious songs. We paid 2000 vatu to get taken there from the bungalow.
When we got there, we had the village chief show us around the HQ of their religion, which was utterly fascinating. Afterwards, we just observed them singing; they were completely ignoring us. The village at night had an incredible backdrop of the Milky Way and the red smoke from the volcano.
The John Frum movement emerged around World War II, likely sparked by contact with US troops. Followers believe in John Frum, an American deity, whose name most likely originated from the introduction “John from America.” The movement is one of the so-called cargo cults, driven by the belief in heavenly gifts, anticipating more through prayers.
Emerging as a response to British and French colonial influence and Christian missionary efforts, the new faith resisted the suppression of old customs. The Frum liturgy aligns more with animistic indigenous beliefs than Christianity, posing challenges for colonial authorities.
The faith’s most sacred items are American flags and World War II-era uniforms worn during the 15 February parade. The John Frum movement, now with around 200 followers, extends its influence with the political party Nagriamel, holding one seat in the Vanuatu Parliament.
Prince Philip Movement
As well, I highly recommend visiting Yakel village where you can meet the followers of the Prince Philip Movement. Even if you are not interested in that, they have a beautiful garden, a nice view over a river canyon, and some dancing. They follow a truly authentic way of life. However, going there from the treehouse was expensive because it is far away; the car was 7000 vatu and the tribal visit itself was 3000.
Followers of The Prince Philip Movement believe that Prince Philip is divine. The belief’s origin is uncertain, with one version linking it to a 20th-century legend about a white man born from the Yasur volcano, destined to travel the world and marry a queen. The movement gained momentum in the 1950s when islanders saw a portrait of Prince Philip and Queen Elizabeth II in British colonial buildings, seemingly fulfilling the prophecy.
Believers annually celebrate Prince Philip’s birthday in anticipation of his return. The deity actually acknowledged the faith, and in 2007, the reality show “Meet the Natives” brought five men from the village to London to meet Prince Philip, a moment of religious significance never repeated.
Prince Philip’s death in 2021 prompted an extended village mourning period, marked by kava consumption and pig slaughtering. A debate now arises on whether the faith will focus on Prince Philip’s spirit or his physical form, and whether the deity’s position will become hereditary, passing to the new king.
Blue Cave
The famous Blue Cave is located close to the White Grass resort, so it is very convenient if you stay there. In our case, we did it on the day before our return flight as it is close to the airport as well. For the tour, we paid 7500 each. We took a small boat, and near the cave, we had to do a rather scary dive under the rock using snorkeling gear. It was high tide, so the entrance was underwater; during low tide, you don’t even have to dive, only swim.
Inside the cave was really mystical; ideally, it should be sunny and around midday so the sun makes the spectacular glow that gives the cave the name.
Other sights
Some other places of interest in Tanna:
- Kastom villages around the volcano – they do some dancing and performances, worth to see, while a bit touristy
- Giant Banyan tree – a tremendous tree system, said to be one of the biggest plants in the world by area
- Port Resolution – a pretty nice beach and the landing spot for James Cook
- Sulfur Bay – a hot spring in a river. Locals collect a 1000 vatu fee to enter and have some disagreements who “owns” the spring